But first you must get there…
Underwear shopping in Perth.
Losing your checked bag is never fun. Arriving at your interim destination after three flights, 30 hours of travel and learning that you may not have your bag for the 10-day cruise you are about to embark on is downright maddening. But it was out of my hands, we were at the mercy of the airline, and we would have to fend for ourselves. With my 10-year-old son in tow we got busy buying toothbrushes and some underwear. After a fitful night, but with clean teeth and new undies in my backpack, we were off to Perth airport for the final leg of the outbound journey before boarding the Lindblad National Geographic Orion for our Kimberley Coast adventure from Broome to Darwin.
The airline implied that there was still a chance that we would be reunited with our bag in Broome. Right, and “the check is in the mail”. The online-lost-baggage-portal-thingy hadn’t been updated in a few hours and that’s never a good sign.
The generosity of strangers.
As my son and I walked around Perth airport waiting for our flight to board, wondering what, if anything, we would be able to buy in Broome, a big, bearded Australian guy approached us.
Beardy Australian guy - “You the blokes whose kit s’gone walkabout?”
Me - “Yes?”
Beardy Australian guy - “You’re going to need some thongs.”
Me - “Pardon?”
Beardy Australian guy - “Some flippy-floppies. C’mon, I’ll show you.”
We followed him to a surf shop (a surf shop in the airport no less!) and he led us a spinner-rack full of flip-flop sandals.
Beardy Australian guy - “Thongs! You’re going to need these for the trip. Let’s pick some out. What size are you little fella?”
My son - “4”
He looks at me.
Me - “12”
He picks out a few pair of flip-flops (I can’t refer to them as thongs and keep a straight face), walks to the counter, pays for them, and hands us our new footwear.
Beardy Australian guy, to my son - “There ya go Mate. All set for the Kimberley.”
While my son and I shared a look of astonishment, Beardy Australian Guy walked away! We didn’t know who he was, how he knew of our plight, or where he came from. And he was so casual about it all. Also, the generosity of Australians was about to become more evident as the day went on.
We’re not in Canada anymore.
If Australians can be categorized as relaxed, the folks from Western Australia are like regular Australians (is there such a thing?) on Prozac. Chill and laid back don’t begin to describe their demeanor. They also speak their minds and pull no punches. One of the flight attendants referred to vegans as “fussy eaters”, and our transfer driver and local guide in Broome likened the Gold Coast to his idea of hell. I imagine Alaskans to be like this. That’s a compliment.
In a country roughly the size of the US, Western Australia makes up 33% of the area of Australia. Texas and Alaska can both fit in WA. Yet the state has a population of roughly 3 million people, and 90% of them live in and around Perth. This means that the other 300,000 Western Australians live in an area the size of 3.6 Texases! If you exclude the day of departure from Broome, and day of arrival in Darwin, we didn’t see a road, airport, hotel, marina, yacht club, beach resort, car, truck, or town of any sort for the eight days we sailed along the Kimberley Coast. The place is deserted. More on that later.
The airline informed me that our bag was not going to catch up with us in Broome, but was instead being sent to Darwin, where we could retrieve it 10 days later. WONDERFUL!
Here’s a tip, if you must buy a new wardrobe for a 10-day Expedition Cruise, don’t do it in Broome.
Free laundry and free clothes!
When we eventually boarded the ship the Hotel Director sought us out right away and offered us free laundry for the duration of the voyage. Then another complete stranger, a past guest of Lindblad Expeditions back for another voyage, walked up to me and handed me a Lindblad branded long-sleeved white shirt.
“If this fits you, you can keep it. I bought it on the last trip, and it doesn’t fit me.”
It fit, so I kept it, and I wore it. A lot.
The Orion - A Vessel Par Excellence
The Lindblad National Geographic Orion is more than just a great expedition ship; it's a floating base camp designed for exploration. Accommodating just over 100 guests, the Orion offers an intimate and luxurious experience. The ship is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities and a fleet of Zodiacs for shore landings. The cabins are spacious and elegantly designed, most featuring large windows or balconies offering panoramic views of the ever-changing landscapes.
The ship's lounge and library serve as communal hubs, where guests can gather to share stories or attend presentations by the expedition team. The observation deck is a perfect spot for wildlife viewing or simply enjoying the serenity of sailing through one of the most remote parts of the world.
Life aboard the Orion is marked by comfort and relaxation. The days are filled with adventure and discovery, while evenings provide a chance to unwind and reflect on the day's experiences. Guests can enjoy a drink in the lounge, attend a briefing on the next day's activities, or simply relax on the deck under the stars.
The onboard experience is enriched by the presence of the expedition team. This diverse group, including naturalists, marine biologists, ornithologists, historians, a National Geographic photographer, and a photography instructor, bring a depth of knowledge and passion to the journey. Their lectures on the region's flora, fauna, and history are not just informative but also engaging, bringing context to the day's explorations, and providing guests with a deeper understanding of their surroundings. Their expertise and enthusiasm for the Kimberley region enrich the voyage immeasurably.
Culinary Delights in the Wilderness
Dining aboard the Orion is a gastronomic delight. The ship's chefs are adept at crafting menus that reflect the local flavors and ingredients of the Kimberley region and Australia in general. Meals are served in the ship's dining room, as well as al fresco when weather permits, and guests are encouraged to mingle and enjoy their meals in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, sharing stories of their day's adventures. The cuisine is a blend of international and Australian dishes, with an emphasis on fresh, local seafood.
Water, water everywhere, but not a drop to swim in. Or kayak in.
The Kimberley's landscape is dominated by dramatic rock formations, deep gorges, and cascading waterfalls. Sailing along the coast, guests are treated to views of towering cliffs and secluded bays. Its remoteness is palpable – it's a land that time forgot, and modernity has barely touched. The region's isolation makes it a haven for an array of wildlife. From the deck of the Orion, one might spot the dorsal fin of a shark cutting through the water, or the splash of a humpback whale. On land, sightings of wallabies and rare birds like the white-bellied sea eagle are not uncommon.
The King George Falls is a particular highlight, with its twin cascades plunging over 250 feet (80 m) into the river below.
Another must-see is the Horizontal Falls, a natural phenomenon where tidal movements create a waterfall effect in the narrow passages between the cliffs. Experiencing this spectacle from the hired speed boats is an unforgettable experience.
Each day aboard the Orion offers new opportunities for exploration. Zodiac excursions take guests to remote beaches, hidden coves, and river inlets. On land, guided walks lead to stunning lookout points, secluded pools, and ancient rock art sites.
In this setting, and with all of this water around, why no mention of swimming or snorkeling?
The scenery along the Kimberley Coast is stunning. Anywhere else in the world and the beaches and small islands would be teeming with luxury hotels and buttered and bronzed tourists. Why not here?
Salties! Saltwater crocodiles to be exact. And they are both a blessing and a curse. The mere fact that these prehistoric creatures live in the waters along this coast means that water sports of any kind are strictly prohibited. No snorkeling, no diving, no kayaking. To paraphrase Chef from Apocalypse Now “Never get in the water.”
And you see the crocs everywhere when exploring the rivers and estuaries by Zodiac - lounging on riverbanks and basking on sun-drenched mudflats. And for every croc you see, there are many more beneath the surface of the water, silent sentinels guarding their domain.
Aboriginal Rock Art - Windows to the Past
One of the highlights of the Kimberley Coast is the ancient Aboriginal rock art found throughout the region. These artworks, some of which date back tens-of-thousands of years, offer a unique insight into the lives and beliefs of the region's Indigenous people. The Wandjina and Gwion Gwion rock paintings, with their mysterious figures and intricate designs, are particularly striking. Visiting these sites, often accessible only by Zodiac, is a profound and humbling experience. These paintings, some estimated to be over 20,000 years old, are a testament to one of the oldest surviving cultures on Earth and their enduring connection to this ancient landscape.
Heading home (and perhaps reuniting with our luggage).
Leaving the Kimberley wasn't just the end of a voyage; it was the beginning of a new perspective. We had witnessed the Kimberley in all its raw, untamed beauty, and it left an indelible mark on us. The voyage acted as a reminder of the delicate balance between humanity and nature, and the responsibility that we must protect natural treasures like this. We gained a newfound respect for the all the planet's wild places and a renewed commitment to be responsible stewards.
We said our goodbyes to our new friends, many of whom were staying in Australia for more exploration. Some were going to explore Kakadu National Park, others were headed to the larger cites to watch some of the FIFA Women’s World Cup matches, and a few were going check out the Reef, the Rock, or the Opera House. At the airport my son and I were reunited with our suitcase, which we handed back to the airline and once again entrusted them with our belongings.
And there were no surprises. Our bag made it home at the same time we did. And the best part of losing the bag in the first place? We were able to take all the clean clothes from the suitcase and put them right back into the drawers and closets they came from.
Not just a cruise.
Embarking on an expedition cruise to the Kimberley Coast of Australia with Lindblad Expeditions is akin to stepping into a vividly illustrated page of a National Geographic magazine. This journey, beginning in the historic pearling town of Broome and concluding in the tropical city of Darwin, is not just a cruise; it's an immersive exploration of one of the planet's most isolated and spellbinding regions. If you're seeking an adventure that will challenge you, inspire you, and leave you with a renewed sense of wonder, then set your sights on the Kimberley.
